Day 30 101 miles 2892 feet of climbing 12.5 ave

Monument Valley, UT to Tuba City AZ

We entered the state of Arizona traveling through the lands of the Navajo People. The scenery is still beautiful but after Monument Valley it seems to be missing something.

The threat of rain is now a thing of the past. Arizona has little rainfall this time of year. Even though we had a headwind it was only a 10 to 15 mph breeze most of the time and not a problem. Temperatures were in the 80’s and the sun was bright.

The sun has fried our bodies from the weeks on the road. The worst is our lips. They are burnt chapped and split. Anything other than ice cream hurts to eat.

Other exposed body parts are peeling badly. Our tans would not make a good Coppertone commercial. The raccoon eyes from sun glasses the pure white feet from the sock line down. And our legs… bike shorts are long. Our tan line stops just above the knee. Put on a regular pair of shorts and flip flops and we are a site to see. White eyes, tan face… white thigh tan knees to the ankle white feet. Tan arms white hands from gloves.

The first couple we met from France has been on our website blog. So cool! We wish them the best of luck in the USA. It is much easier for us to cross the country by bike than it is for them. We know the store chains and motels etc they do not. Even though they have a good grasp on the English language it still can be hard to communicate.

We need to send out a couple of special thank you’s today. Kelley shipped our bicycle boxes out to the west coast today. We are getting close to the finish line. Also Kelley is the person that keeps our blog in order. Special Thanks go out to Al for keeping our yards under control. And again thanks to Rick Kushman for setting up the entire blog and web thing. It has worked out well!

Day 29 101 miles 5070 feet of climbing 12.4 ave

McElory Canyon, CO to Monument Valley, UT

No winds, bright sun, warm temperatures and non-stop scenic beauty was the order for today.

Our day started early. We were out the door and riding by 7:15. The original route had us riding 115 miles to Monument Valley. A little short cut saved us a few miles and by 8AM we had entered our 12'th state of the tour – Utah!

Along about mid morning we spotted another cyclist with touring bags mounted on his bike. To our amazement it was another person from France. He, like the French couple we met yesterday was headed to Chicago. A fit looking man in his 30’s he was traveling alone. We chatted and exchanged email information before parting ways. What are the odds of coming across three people from France cyclo-touring the US two days in a row?

Within a couple hours we came upon small village called Bluff. Once outside of town the terrain began to change. Red rock monuments and plateaus started appearing.

The road was virtually traffic free which seemed odd for such a picturesque place. Where was everybody? This place is amazing.

As we got closer to Monument Valley nature’s beauty almost became overwhelming for us. Around every bend in the road another natural wonder appeared for us to see. From the painted mountains to the natural caves and arches this place was simply amazing.

Our cameras were firing off photos like Tommy guns. Then we all realized no photo taken by anyone could show this beauty in its enormity. Sure a picture will give you an idea what it looks like but unless you see it with your own eyes you can’t possibly comprehend this natural wonder.

Our sleep spot tonight is right in the heart of Monument Valley. For the night the only available room was a 4-bedroom 2-bath house sitting on a bluff. What a shame. The cost for this palace was only $185. I am typing this report outside on a patio over looking the monuments.

The manager of the restaurant asked us about our journey. When I said we started in Connecticut he asked what town because he use to live in New London. Small world.

It would be nice to spend a couple days here and go on a bus tour or visit the sites but we can’t. Our little wagon train will be hitting the dusty trail in the morning. This tour is just a recon mission so we can bring our families to the “good stuff” in the near future. Skip the scruff we will know where the action is.

--Check out yesterdays Kayak Video Clip...!

The Real Day 28 62 miles 3618 feet of climbing 11.5 ave

Durango, CO to McElmo Canyon, CO

Durango is one of those towns you would want to come back to some day. A bicycle friendly place that is also one of the USA's Great Mountain Bike hot spots. Many other sporting events originate here also.

As we were leaving the city Tim spotted what looked like a cycling trail along a River that had some serious rapids working. It was headed in the right direction so we jumped on it. As we rode the bike path we came across a kayak race course. The corse is marked by gates a kayaker would have to navigate his boat through while battling the rapids.

Then up river we spotted two kayakers preparing to do battle with the roaring current. We watched as they used every trick in the book to get through the boiling water and complete the turns through the gates. These guys are nuts! No way…no how was that for us we all agreed. Give me a spot on the Niantic River and a 4 foot striper any day.

We had a big hill to climb out of Durango and just at the crest we came upon two other cyclist carrying panniers (saddlebags) going in the opposite direction. We all stopped and asked where each was going. We immediately detected a French accent. The man and women I would guess their late 30’s were from France. They landed in Las Vegas a few weeks ago to cycle America. Their plan was to cycle to Chicago. We talked for a while exchanged information and went our separate ways.

Soon after that we experienced a mechanical problem. Joe had felt his hamstring tightening and decided his seat may be a tad low so he stopped to raise it. When he did the bolt snapped and was stuck in the seat post clamp. Now the seat would no longer stay up, down or straight. A roadside fix that included some hose clamps and vice grips worked fine. Over the years we have found mini hose clamps and vise grips able to fix most ills.

We proceeded to Cortez where we found a well-equipped bike shop. They had a new clamp and the fix was made.

Our day ended in McElmo Canyon just outside of Cortez. Here we are staying at a bed and breakfast Inn that has come nice cabins also. It is in the middle of an archaeological preserve. They have on display some of the pottery and other artifacts that have been found on the grounds. It was amazing to see what we were able to make so long ago.

The sun was bright all day and the temperature was in the low 70’s. Real good for riding. Our day had to end here due to the lack of sleep spots. The next one for us is about 115 miles away. That will be our goal for tomorrow.

Day 28 ?? miles ???? feet of climbing ?? ave

Durango, CO to somewhere (we hope) in New Mexico or Arizona

Team Eliminator seems to have gone missing again. The only word received from the team yesterday was a brief message, "Broke seat clamp bolt" and a picture of the broken part and some plumber type repair ingenuity.

We aren't sure if the part failure is what caused a delay for the team or if they are simply sight seeing in the desert...Updates as they arrive!

Day 27 75 miles 3987 feet of climbing 12.6 ave

Pagosa Springs, CO to Durango, CO

Wednesday morning we were eating in the motels dining area when the waiter a man in his late 30’s started asking us about our cross-country cycling trip. He then asked if we would do him a favor because he has no computer at home. Mail his 11-year-old daughter some photos and our little story to help him explain if “you set a goal it can be achieved”. It does not have to be a cross-country cycling trip it could be something as simple as good grade on a school paper. It is so cool to think our little adventure actually may help someone else achieve a goal in his or her life. We gladly took Emily’s address and will send her a nice package when we return home.

After leaving Rt 160 outside Pagosa our ride was on a nearly deserted road that went buy Chimney Rock. This is another archaeological marvel in this beautiful state of Colorado. Remember we do not stop and visit these sites, as our time will not allow. We do mentally absorb the beauty of these wonders as we ride by. If we were to stop at every interesting or scenic spot the tour would still be stalled in Ohio.

We “thought” all the major climbing was over but looming in the distance appears to be more snow covered mountain peaks. We are not sure what they have in store for us. Speaking of climbing we have already climbed 129,821 feet so far!!! And we are not done yet. Ouch!!! Gee…. we have almost done Mount Everest five times from sea level already. PLUS rode a couple thousand miles as a “side order”.

Our day ended in Durango Colorado with a nice bowl of pasta from Beaujos Mountain Bistro. An inexpensive but delicious meal for a change. Still not the home cooking we are all long for but better then Pizza Hut.

Day 26 90 miles 4433 feet of climbing 11.8 ave

Alamoso CO to Pagosa Springs CO

The dues we paid with the torturous winds Monday were payment for two perfect cycling days in a row. Both days were sunny with no chance of rain and only moderate winds of 15mph.

Tuesday we reached the highest point we will attain on this cross-country tour 10,800’ at Wolf Creek Pass. Here also is the place we crossed the Continental Divide. At the summit a bronze bar embedded in the asphalt marks the spot where the country’s rain is separated east and west.

Tuesday’s first 15 miles were flat riding on the valley’s floor as we approached the climb to the summit. The views up the 10-mile climb were spectacular to say the least. The grade was moderate and we had a large shoulder for most of the climb. Along the winding switchback road we pass through two tunnels carved into the mountain.

As we gained elevation the snow started to appear on the ground. Once we reached the Pass at 10,800’ the snow was about 24” deep off the road. The air temperature was about 50-55 degrees.
The route follows the Rio Grande River to its beginnings at the top of the mountain. Here is where the mighty Rio Grande River that separates Texas from Mexico originates. It is incredible to think the crystal clear small streams and creeks formed by snowmelt converge and find their way south 1800 miles to create that river.

At the summit we ate a snack and put on some warm gear. The downhill past the summit was steep and very fast. We had to stay on the brakes the entire time to keep speeds at a reasonable rate. Again the views were something our cameras cannot convey. Spectacular rock formations, waterfalls and panoramic views were everywhere to be seen.


We ended our day at Pagosa Springs Colorado. Here we found the world's largest and deepest hot mineral spring. These springs range in temperature from 85 to 109 degrees. The mineral deposits in the hot water create volcanic looking miniature mountains with water erupting instead of lava.

Some have the distinct smell of sulfur as they flow. People use these springs year round. Imagine coming out of the springs 100+ degree water on a cold winters day.

We pulled up to the first motel to check prices when an couple came up to us and said……” you guys are awesome!” At first we were confused. Are they trying to sell us something?? Then they explained that they had passed us hours ago in their car while we were climbing to the Wolf Creek Summit. Having done some cycling themselves they knew the level of difficulty it took to get the heavy bikes to the top. They also told us they were part of the “Warm Showers” network. These are generous people who offer their homes for sleeping to traveling cyclist. http://www.warmshowers.org/ Again just plain good Americans.

Day 25 70 miles 4305 feet of climbing (all in one hill)10.7 ave

La Veta CO to Alamosa CO

Wind is a four-letter word… and we called it a few other four-letter words I will not share with you. These words were shouted repeatedly at the wind like it would make a difference.

Our day started with a 20-mile climb out of the valley to La Veta Pass. The air was cool but the sun was shining as we reached the top. Snow can still be found on the ground above 9000 feet in the Rockies. The grade is not extremely steep but it is a steady 20-mile climb that eats up horsepower. Life is good….

We knew our efforts of climbing would be rewarded with another fantastic 25-mile downhill to the valley floor. Then we had another 20+ miles of relatively flat running to Alamosa before the climb up to Wolf Creek Pass. This was going to be a good day to make up some lost time.

Just as we cleared the peak and started the downhill we were hit with a windblast that was equal to the jet wash from a 747. It can’t be possible…. No Friggin’ way….. A couple of words of disappointment could be heard on our two-way radios as we started down the mountain.

This may be had to comprehend to a non-cyclist but the wind hitting us with a direct head wind at 30 to 35 mph required us to pedal to go downhill. We had to pedal to go up the hill now we have to pedal to go down. Even pedaling downhill speeds were only slightly faster than our climbing speed as incredible as it may seem.

I can’t explain the disappointment we felt having been robbed of our downhill by the wicked wind. In our minds we knew this could not last all day. Not agin…impossible. The wind must just be at altitude. When we get to the valley floor it will die down for the long flat run to Alamosa. No need to panic.

The trip down the mountain was only slightly faster than our trip up. A real bummer to put it lightly.

Sadly for us the valley’s winds were even possibly stronger. Our bikes were continuously being bullied around on the flats by the gusts. Most of the day we were not able to achieve speeds greater than10mph.

Physically our bodies have the power to keep the bikes moving forward even with the wind fiercely pushing us back. Mentally is another matter. You know you are dishing out enough horsepower to be going 18mph easily but you are only going 8. That is hard to take for day or even two but we have endured this mental torture for nearly 800 miles. Our planned “big” day was again going to be foiled by the wind.

We stopped at a roadside rest on the valley floor to eat some canned pears we had brought along. The wind noise was so loud it was hard to even talk to each other. Even opening the cans posed a problem. Expose the cans liquid to the wind and it would blow out onto the table. It was that bad.

We had our snack and hopped onto the bikes for some more abuse. Joe pulled ahead while Tim and Ken made an attempt to draft each other. Normally drafting another rider is an easy task but with saddlebags and a 35mph wind it is almost impossible. The lead rider can hardly run a straight line for the other rider to follow. The wind grabs the front panniers (saddlebags) and turns them away from the wind like a weather vane on a barn roof. Now the lead rider is almost in the weeds. The rider behind gets a sudden blast of wind and now he is in the weeds.

At one point Ken got off his bike let it drop onto the ground and said…”I have had enough”. Tim was feeling no better at this point but handled the situation “slightly” better. They jumped back on the bikes and pushed forward.

When the caught up to Joe outside Alamosa the decision had already been made. Joe said it was over. If we were to continue on to even the next available sleep spot it would be after 8PM. By the time you eat do laundry and our other duties it would be midnight. Having only traveled a mere 70 miles you just needed to stick us with a fork…we were done…well done.

According to The Weather Channel we are being tormented by stubborn low-pressure system that will not move. We should be glad we are on the west side of this system because the towns we just left like Dodge City are being hit hard with rain and golf ball size hail.

Tomorrow we will climb out of the valley to Wolf Creek Pass, which is over 10,800 feet and the beginning of the end of our crossing of the Rocky Mountians.

We will cross the Continental Divide in that area. The Continental Divide in the Americas is the line that divides the flow of water between the Pacific Ocean and Atlantic Ocean. Rain or snow that drains on the east side of the Continental Divide flows toward the Atlantic Ocean while precipitation on the west side drains and flows toward the Pacific Ocean.

I will have to say we put up a gallant fight but again the wind was the victor. We will lick our wounds and give it hell in the morning.

Day 24 67 miles 6014 feet of climbing 11.1 ave

Trinidad, CO to La Veta, CO

There was a reason for going east to west against all those nasty head winds for over 2000 miles. That was to save the best for last.

The Rocky Mountains are an impressive site. Huge snow covered peaks as far as the eye can see. You wonder how the first American pioneers cleared this huge obstacle. It is a big deal for us to do even on a paved road with GPS.

We can notice the effects of altitude as we approached the 10,000-foot mark today. The power you have to push the loaded bike up the hills at 2000 feet is not there at 10,000. You can feel the slight lack of oxygen on the body.

Our day started in Trinidad with a later than normal start. We were still a tad beat up from yesterday’s 125-mile battle with the winds and a 1 AM bedtime.

Today we knew we had some lingering winds and long climbs in the mountains to reach Cuchara Pass at 9950’.

We were glad to see a country store at Stonewall Gap about 25 miles in. This is a very small mountain village and this was the only store of any kind we saw today. Inside we found a friendly gentlemen in his mid 60’s who owned the store. We purchased some liquids and an ice cream bars to consume on the stores covered porch.

The owner, seeing our loaded bikes asked of our trek. When we told him we left from Niantic Connecticut and planned to ride to California. He then asked if Niantic was anywhere near New London. We told him it was only a couple miles away. He then told us he was a bass player in a band that in 1967 played at the Mabry Hotel near Ocean Beach New London.

Then he said there was a diner in that town that had the best food he had ever had. He described the diner to a tee and said the guy who ran it was named Jack. Of course we knew right away he was talking about Jacks Place that just recently closed. To be so far from home and find a person who after 40+ years can still describe the layout of a diner he once ate at. Pretty cool..

We immediately put in a call to Team rider Jay Sullivan who lives near-by “Jack” who owned that diner. We left him a message to tell Jack (real name Joe) he still has fans in Stonewall, CO.

We ate our snacks and continued on up the Mountain. As we reached Cuchara Pass we could still see patches of snow that had not melted yet. The sun was shining and the air was warm. We were rewarded for our 20 mile climb with a spectacular 17+ mile downhill to La Veta.

Of course first thing in the morning we need to climb out of the valley to La Veta pass that is again at 10,000’. We will repeat this scenario a few time to clear the Rockies.

All in all a spectacular cycling day.